A1 Journal article (refereed)
A counter-story to the rags-to-riches narrative : A Finnish male model wearing hobo style during the deep depression in the age of AIDS (2023)

Silvola, K. (2023). A counter-story to the rags-to-riches narrative : A Finnish male model wearing hobo style during the deep depression in the age of AIDS. Critical Studies in Men's Fashion, 10, 93-109. https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00068_1

JYU authors or editors

Publication details

All authors or editors: Silvola, Kari

Journal or series: Critical Studies in Men's Fashion

ISSN: 2050-070X

eISSN: 2050-0718

Publication year: 2023

Publication date: 01/04/2023

Volume: 10

Pages range: 93-109

Publisher: Intellect

Publication country: United Kingdom

Publication language: English

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00068_1

Publication open access: Not open

Publication channel open access: 

Publication is parallel published (JYX): https://jyx.jyu.fi/handle/123456789/93537

Abstract

As a former male model whose modelling career lasted 25 years (1988–2013) and as a researcher, I am interested in the production of meanings and knowledge related to representations of masculinity. As a gay former male model who was classified as ‘other’ but represented the normative ideal and passed for straight in fashion shows and photographs, I look back on images of myself differently and against the grain. I analyse three of my fashion photographs – taken for the Finnish tabloid City in 1993, when AIDS was considered the ‘gay plague’, but never published – in terms of critical studies of masculinities, gay and sexuality studies, and queer theory. I speculate and examine gestures, facial expressions and poses in the photographs that were still intolerable and prevented their publication 30 years ago. The publication of my photographs now is concrete proof that masculine gestured performances are becoming more inclusive and diverse.

Keywords: fashion; male homosexuality; models (occupations); representation (mental objects); sexuality (sexual orientation); sexual identity; masculinity

Free keywords: fashion; LGBTIQ; male model; passing; queer history; representation; self-discrimination; sexuality

Contributing organizations

Ministry reporting: Yes

Reporting Year: 2023

Preliminary JUFO rating: 1